rhubarb-pop-in Pop-ins are the 17th century predecessor to the boilermaker, where drinkers would add flavors to their alcohol to mask impurities and other forms of nastiness. As with most historic cocktails, no one does them better than The Dead Rabbit in New York; that is, until I made my own version for Red and I. We swapped the gose, a tart and sour ale, with Freigeist Abraxxxas, a smoked Lichtenhainer Weisse (yes, I had to Google it too). The results were refreshingly delicious and a simple but welcome upgrade for spring and summer drinking. If you can't find Freigeist Abraxxxas (it's only around us from time to time) go with a gose or wheat beer, just stay away from darker, hoppier styles. --Brown

Rhubarb Pop-in Makes 1 drink

8 ounces sour beer (the Dead Rabbit uses Leipziger Gose, but I now prefer the unique smokiness of the Abraxxxas)

2 Tablespoons Red & Brown's rhubarb shrub


In a tulip glass or pint glass pour in the beer and gently stir in the shrub. Quaff. Be Quenched. Repeat.